So, this past weekend I went to Ieper, Belgium. This is off the normal touristy trail and interesting to hear. Since I like history stuff, this was right up my alley. I knew it was going to be a downer, but hey, war memorials often are.
So we headed out at 7 am on Saturday on a bus. One of those nice ones....not school bus. So then as we all passed out back to sleep, the bus took us to Dover where we got on a ferry. Well, by got on a ferry, I mean we waited on the bus for an hour cause there's a strike going in France so it was all kinds of backed up. So we finally got on the ferry and set off for our journey across the channel.
The Channel
So we get into France and I'm quite excited cause I'm in continental Europe. Then as I stare out the window, I realize I see this view driving around Indiana. Countryside is countryside where ever you go. Main difference was that the road signs were in French.
Cornfield in Belgium
So after a very quick drive, we were in Belgium and like another 15 minutes to Ieper. It takes longer to get to Indy than to Ieper. So we wander around until we get to the Flander's Field Museum. Most gorgeous museum ever.
Very nicely done inside as well. Interactive booths. Nice mix of pictures and reading. All different kinds of languages. Movies. Overall, I really enjoyed it. It was very educational about the battles around Ieper. A cool feature that is used in other museums is that you are assigned a name and as you go through the museum, you learn what happened to them.
I was Max Beckmann. Who apparently is famous enough to have a wikipedia article. Anyway, I was kind of hoping to have a soldier, but it was still cool to have.
So then we checked in to our hostel. This hostel was a lot different from the last one. But we spent like 2 hours there besides sleeping so it wasn't a big deal to me. We then got a meal at a Tea Room. Woo meals that seem free but really aren't because you are paying for them with the trip expenses.
Then the trip took another serious turn at the Menin Gate.
It's a memorial for the 55,000 men who don't have a grave or disappeared in the battles around Ieper. It's very similar to the Vietnam Wall for a comparison. A local guide told us some interesting facts about the memorial which I could repeat, but for times sake, I won't. If you are actually interested, check out my facebook album cause I added some there. Or I could tell you in person.
Then we got our spots for the Last Post ceremony. A couple of Bugler's from Ieper play and it's a very solemn ceremony. It has happened every night since the memorial's unveiling in the 1920s. That makes it one of the few daily ceremonies for WWI in the world.
Honestly, it got lost on me because we were in the crowd and I'm the kind of person who has to see what's going on, even if it is nothing. It's a ceremony that you make of what you make of it. The buglers play and then there's a couple minutes of silence. Then it's over. No applause. Just...over. But I enjoy the simplicity. If you're in the area, check it out. Just remember to be respectful.
So, after that we set off in search of what to do that evening in Ieper. It was a fun evening trying out different beverages that Belgium is famous fun and just hanging out with people. Then when we got back to the hostel, we discovered our room door was the LOUDEST door ever with its creaking. So much for a sneaky entrance....
Sunday
We got up and went out in search for Belgium waffles. We were soon to discover that this town doesn't get up until like 11 which did NOT work for us. So we went and got a good deal on some chocolates. You're welcome in advance to family members who get some cause I'm showing some restraint not eating them. So after that healthy stop, we went to a bakery to get some real breakfast cause this hostel didn't have a kitchen. So we headed back to pack up and eat our goodies.
Then we got back on our bus to tour around Ieper. We saw so many cemeteries. It really drove how that this was a lost generation. So many young men/boys (as young as 14/15) gave their lives for that war.
We also visited a replica trench. That was very interesting to see and go in. Those men lived in those things for days on end. Could NOT imagine that. Especially since we went on a cold, but sunny day. They had to stay in all kinds of weather and endure muddy trenches. Knowing that one false move could mean a bullet in your skull. Machine gun fire going at all hours.
We continued on to a German cemetery. Germans have 4 cemeteries in Belgium. British have over 100. Germans got a mass burial. British soldiers are buried in individual graves. The German cemeteries are dark in color. British cemeteries are light in color. Seems unfair until you remember the Germans ruined the people of Belgium's lives. Belgium was a neutral state and they used it to get to France. British were their saviors.
Mass grave. Over 24,000 buried in it, 7,000 unknown.
Germans normally do not visit these mass graves. It's very shame filled for them for what their ancestors did. I looked at the registry and saw only 4 people from Germany listed. Then about 50 British names. What made me mad was the rude remarks some people wrote. "Fuck you" is not something I would ever write in a registry. Forgiveness should be given in my opinion. Respect these soldiers. Odds are, they were fighting against their will just like the British soldiers. I mean, if they hadn't been, the Christmas Truce wouldn't have happened. (Christmas Truce is when at various places along the front line, both sides called a cease fire for at least Christmas. Some lasted up until New Years).
Our last cemetery stop was at the one of largest British cemetery in the area. Again, it drove home how that was the Lost generation. Every one of these graves had a family back home. They never got to see them again.
Thankfully, that was the last of the cemeteries for the trip. I couldn't really handle hearing more depressing facts for the time being. So we got back on the bus and headed into a nearby town. We got to visit the Talbott House.
Others didn't like this part, but I really enjoyed it! The Talbott house was a place for the men to relax on their days off. They would spend like 2 weeks at the front lines, 2 weeks doing other things, and then maybe a couple days in town. So, they went to either the whorehouses, bars or the Talbott house.
As the sign states, it's an every man's house. So didn't matter whether you were the Prince of England or a private in the army, you were all equals. You all waited in queue together. It was nice to see this side of that time. It was a real character of a house so check out my facebook album (the 2nd Ieper one) for the pictures.
Then, I went on search for some hot chocolate. The pictures are deceiving. Sure, it was bright and sunny, but it was FREEZING! So, I wanted some Belgium hot chocolate. If you get the chance to have some, DO IT. Delicious!! So chocolatey and perfect. Overpriced as hell, but I didn't care cause it was so good.
Then the professor/guide had one more depressing stop for us. We went to the prison cells for deserters of the British army. The British executed at least 5 men during WWI. Those are the only confirmed cases, but there are believed to be more. These poor men had shell shock so bad that they just couldn't take it any more. So they either plotted to run away or did run away, but got caught. They had a trial that was would have been VERY hard for them to win.
So, they were executed by firing squad at sunrise. Disgusting if you ask me. One case found was that a man had to be part of a firing squad against his brother. And if the firing squad disobeyed, they were punished. One of the hidden uglies of WWI.
On to happier times, we headed back to the French port to sail back to Dover and drive back to London. Overall, I enjoyed the trip. It's not something a lot of Americans do so I'm glad I went. But yes, it was utterly depressing at times and I was glad Belgium had plentiful chocolate.
Perhaps, I can take you through a typical week here for next time. Remember, I'm quite connected so you can facebook chat, email, skype, etc with me. Dorms just added wifi so I'm not stuck in my room. Cheers!